2012 Polesio by Poderi San Lazzaro Sangiovese Marche

Is organically grown with low yields in vineyards classified as DOCG Rosso Piceno Superiore. But it is sold as an IGT because A) it doesn’t contain any Montepulciano, which Rosso Piceno is required to contain, and B) Paolo uses it as his cash flow wine.

Paolo’s 2012 is stunningly intense, with rich fruit creeping up toward the boundaries of sweetness and, really, a surprising amount of complexity for a wine being sold as just a country red.